Score
Travel Location: Madagascar
'Off the end of the island is a thick, barrelling left. At 4-6 feet, this is one of the heaviest waves you'll surf. The reef is shallow and very dangerous. It is a series of undulating solid blocks of brain coral, but also sharp pieces of staghorn. On a scale of Indian Ocean danger spots, this one ranks right up there with Tamarin Bay and the Hole. If you surf here, expect to be punished'
-Zigzag Magazine, Oct 2000
Yes, I scored. One of the best lefts in the world I guess. It really is an unbelievable wave- to see the water sucking up off the reef as a set rolls around the point- it was like one of the natural wonders of the world. The wave is probably something like Kirra (though Ive never been)- or that one corner section on a big day at El Capitan. You constantly backdoor a series of seriously sucking sections, all the way down the reef. Its definately not like some razor perfect lip line wave like Nias or Cloudbreak- just a long, very heavy series of hold your breath and hope you make it suck outs.
I first heard about the wave up north, where the guys in the dive shop showed me that magazine article, and told me the wave was down south. I almost shit. Then I met the local South African surf charter guys- they were claiming 'best wave in the world'status and shit. They had some Aussie pros (Matt Hoy, ect) out earlier this year, and those guys claimed it better than any of the Menetwai waves. The only guys I surfed with all month were a guy from San Fransisco (2 days) , an old ex-pat who lives in the village all winter to surf it, and the charter guys, who were super cool, and I spent most of my time on the catamaran, sailing between spots. For free. Wow.
There was also a very Trestles like peak nearby- which broke over sand conviently, so was a mellow alternative to the left. A super fun wave in its own right. I wish I had way more time here, but I have to exit the computer. I'll have stories galore upon return- and hopefully a few photos will turn out…….
Oh, shit, I almost forgot. Check out one of the Search video- Chocolate barrels and something or something I think its called- rumour is both waves are in there…….
